Embracing Solitude on the Tonbachsteig

After a day spent on the road and exploring various charming villages, including a delightful visit to Baden-Baden, we were eager to get back into nature. While our previous day had a strong focus on exploration and urban ambiance, we rekindled our adventure spirit with a fresh hike on Day 8.

The Chosen Path

This time, we had selected another one of the “Genießerpfade,” specifically the Tonbachsteig. Described as a moderately challenging trail, it promised a hiking experience that was rewarding without being overly complicated. The statistics for the trail were clear: it would take approximately 4 hours and 30 minutes to cover a distance of 14 kilometers, with an elevation gain of 482 meters.

Despite being rated as difficult, I found little to deter us from our plans. The trail details indicated that half of the route consisted of good gravel paths (likely forest roads), while the other half consisted of natural trails that wound through the forest. This mix of terrain was appealing, hinting at the possibility of beautiful scenery along the way. But the best feature of the trail was that it lead us directly into the core zone of the national park. Meaning: there is hardly any intervention from humans! This could be interesting!

We began our hiking adventure at an empty parking area, where we were the only ones present. This fact offered an immediate sense of solitude and serenity, setting the tone for our hike. The air was cool, and the gentle sounds of nature welcomed us as we set off along lovely paths that wound through the forest.

As we hiked, we were enveloped by an abundance of greenery. The landscape featured plenty of moss, lichen, and ferns, creating a lush environment that felt vibrant and alive. Throughout the hike, I was struck by the overwhelming tranquility of the place – once again, we found ourselves largely alone on the trail. If I recall correctly, we encountered just one other couple during the loop and a couple of people near the end.

Historical Highlights: The Ruins of a Salbeofen

One of the more intriguing highlights along the Tonbachsteig was the discovery of two ruins known as “Salbeofen” (ointment kiln?). These round structures, functioning as ovens for the dry distillation of resinous wood, piqued our interest. According to the informative plaques near each oven and the info from the website, an ointment kiln was used to produce cart ointments and tar oils. The resinous logs were heated so much that the resin ran out and could then be further processed into tar water, pine oil, cart grease, wood tar and pitch. Regarding the drawings they could reach heights of about 4 to 5 meters and processed quantities of around 10 to 12 cubic meters of wood at a time.

I realized how little I had thought about the extraction of resin from wood before visiting this site; in this sense, we even learned something during our hike. In retrospect, I am very surprised that there is no entry about this on Wikipedia. Unfortunately, I don’t know enough about those ovens to create an entry.

A View Down to the Little Lake

As we continued our trek, we were rewarded with a view down to a small lake nestled in the valley below. From our vantage point, the water looked characteristically dark, even black, which made me long for the polarizing filters I had left behind. With those filters in hand, I could have captured the stark contrast and depth of the water, transforming the image entirely. But I told myself, “Next time, maybe.”

Beautiful Natural Pathways & Wooden Hut

The natural paths along our hike were simply beautiful. Ferns and moss transformed every trail into a vivid green corridor; it may sound mundane, but I found immense joy in just walking through this enchanting forest. Each step felt rejuvenating, surrounded by such vibrant flora.

Along the path, we stumbled upon a quaint little hut. There wasn’t anything particularly remarkable about it, but its presence felt like a pleasant surprise during our hike. It served as a charming reminder of the rustic beauty that can often be found tucked away in the woods.

The Gentle Streams of the Forest

The gentle streams we encountered throughout the hike were yet another highlight. I attempted to capture the beauty of these streams with my camera, only to quickly discover that photographing flowing water amidst an abundance of ferns and grass can be a challenge. The result often ended in chaotic images that failed to convey the tranquility of the location. Nonetheless, I appreciated the sights and sounds of the little cascades.

Wildlife Encounters: Watching the Deer

One particularly delightful encounter on our hike was coming across an enclosure for deer, which included a couple of small ones. Watching the deer was a pleasant interlude, especially since the young ones were undeniably cute. Their gentle movements added a touch of magic to the forest scene.

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All posts from our trip to the Black Forest in 2024: