Capturing Mood and Memory on the Satteleisteig

A Glimpse into Day 4

Day four of our vacation in the Black Forest arrived with a familiar weather forecast: warm temperatures with the chance of brief rain showers. Eager to explore more of the “Genießerpfade,” our focus today shifted to the Satteleisteig trail (4h, 11km, ~400m). The trail was described as a “varied hike on soft forest paths around the Rinkenberg,” offering numerous viewpoints into the Tonbachtal valley and Baiersbronn. The highlight was the opportunity to stop at the Sattelei cabin, which had been recommended by the lady at the National Park Center. Intrigued, we decided to give it a try.

A Quiet Beginning

As we commenced our hike, it was evident that we were once again quite alone on the trail. The beauty of the surroundings was apparent, with stunning views opening into the valleys below. The trails were delightful, surrounded by lush greenery, blueberry bushes, and ferns lining our path. Most of the hike was sheltered under trees and bushes, allowing us to enjoy the coolness of the shade. Amid the tranquil scenery, I attempted to capture the atmosphere with some backlighting photos, shooting directly into the sunlight. I hoped the essence and mood of these shots would shine through.

The Rain Catch

Early into our hike, we were met with a sudden downpour. Thankfully, our umbrellas came in handy once again. However, the timing of the rain wasn’t ideal; it passed by just before we entered a sunny section of the trail. This part had no wind and followed a steeper forest road, which made for a somewhat strenuous portion of the hike. After pushing through it, we were relieved to return to the shaded areas once more.

Pleasant Stops and Moody Sections

We soon reached a lovely spot where large flat stones had been arranged as a table, with wooden benches nearby. This type of stone table was something we had come across several times in the Black Forest, and I found it a genuinely charming concept. The inviting structure allowed us to take a short break and enjoy the surroundings. Some sections of the trail showcased visuals that begged for a moody edit. I decided to present both the original and moody versions side by side, as I find that I genuinely prefer the moody edit.

Reaching the Sattelei

After some continued walking, we finally reached the Sattelei cabin. According to its website, “Our Sattelei Hiking Cabin, at a height of 706 meters, is located between Mitteltal and Tonbachtal at the heart of the extensively branching Baierbronner Wanderhimmel (Baierbronn Hiking Heaven).” The website adds, “…the perfect place for a short break for refreshments, a hearty snack, or coffee and cake, inside the parlours or outside on the large sunny terrace.”

However, it’s important not to mistake the term “cabin.” The Sattelei is operated by the nearby 5-Star Superior Resort “Bareiss,” which means neither its quality nor pricing is comparable to a typical alpine hut for hikers. We indulged in a nice cup of coffee while soaking up the pleasant atmosphere, and I can confidently say that it’s worthwhile to make a stop here.

A Bit of History

Refreshed and ready, we departed the Sattelei to tackle the last part of our loop. The terrain was relatively flat as we made our way to the Rinkenwall and Rinkentower. The history surrounding the remains of the Rinkenwall is quite intriguing: “The Rinkenwall or Rinkenmauer is a circular rampart fortification at the southeastern tip of the Rinkenkopf mountain above the Murg valley near the village of Baiersbronn in the county of Freudenstadt in the south German state of Baden-Württemberg. The hillfort could have been a fortification built to protect Reichenbach Abbey, which was built in the late 11th century and which is named as its owner.” Unfortunately, there’s really not a lot of structure left visible. But on the other side: it’s such a joy walking along the traily through the ferns.

Just minutes after exploring the wall, we arrived at the Rinkentower. Wikipedia (translated) describes it as “The Rinkenturm was built in 1914 by the Württemberg Black Forest Association from red sandstone and named after King Wilhelm II of Württemberg.” The tower offers beautiful views, assuming you dare to climb to the top. My wife, however, preferred to remain at the bottom. Unfortunately, two radio antenna towers are situated close to the observation tower. I attempted to crop these distractions out of my photos, yet their presence was still hard to avoid so that I had to edit out parts of them.

Closing the Loop

After visiting the wall and tower, we began our descent back to the trailhead. The descent followed a lovely path, winding through beautiful forests. The memories of the day filled me with gratitude as I reflected on our experiences. As we reached the start of the loop, I felt a satisfying conclusion to our hike. This journey along the Satteleisteig had offered us an array of lovely landscapes and peaceful moments, showcasing yet another facet of the spectacular Black Forest.

Reflecting on our adventure, the hike proved to be exactly what we were looking for: a serene experience surrounded by nature, infused with interesting history, and punctuated by delightful food and friendly encounters.

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All posts from our trip to the Black Forest in 2024: